Archive | January 2013

A Training Excerpt

I thought I’d elaborate on my last post a little bit by sharing a few entries from my training log to give a clearer picture of my training and to give a bit of an idea as to how I analyse my sessions. I used to use a web based training log on which I still think is great, although better suited to triathlon, but now use a simple notebook. After a few rest days from my trip to Spain I started the training and built to what I’m doing now, this excerpt begins almost a week after that as that first week involved a lot of session adjustment, experimentation, and was not wholly representative of the training from then on because I was trying to get an idea of where I was at.

17/12/12 – rest day: 30 minutes stretching in morning and afternoon focusing mainly on quads, groin, hip turnout, hip flexor, and glutile/AT-band. Reduced range of movement in the morning as usual, but this improved notably as I progressed through the stretches and even more so in the afternoon. Did some leg raises onto my desk in the afternoon towards the end of the session.

18/12/12 – Beastmaker session in morning: Did 7c ish session on Beastmaker App, took 1:57:12, averaged 12% failure*. Significant improvement from last session, partly due to rest day I guess, but fingers felt stronger especially half crimp, middle two, and slopers most of all. Weakest on front two, particularly LH, and 45 degree slopers. Front 3 half crimp much weaker than all 4. Ready for 7c+ session.

Arm and Core session 2 in evening: Took about 45 minutes including warmup. Found the 10 minute intervals hard, especially pull ups. Improved one armers as did with 25kg assistance with each arm**, still with cheat start though. 

 19/12/12 – Max move session at wall: Mostly improvement from last session. Changed starting hold for lower hand on crimpoteenie cross over move so is a bit harder now, have to flag and cross under when doing it on LH-side, and can’t pull out of it when I do succeed. Did move 3 for the first time! Move on pinches feels much easier now. Great expectations move is nails, needs better foot.

20/12/12 – rest day: 30 minutes stretching in the morning after walking the dog. Worst range of motion in quads and RH-side gluteal/IT Band is tighter than LH-side for some reason.

21/12/12 – Max move session: Improvement again from last session, ready to change it up. Almost linked two moves on the RH-side crimpoteenie proj, the cross is nails on LH-side. Probably worse on move 2 today, accuracy was a bit off, and skin was going on left index. Stronger again on undercuts move, almost linked with the pinch move so is too easy. Great expectations move works better*** with the bigger foot, good full lock on crimps work.

22/12/12 – Session at Climb Newcastle: Did max hangs in the training room before going through. The board at Newcastle is a bit easier than mine so did a bit more stuff on the 45’s and a bit less on crimps. Slopey pockets felt better than usual even accounting for the extra grip. Tried several of the harder problems, succeeded on some, failed on quite a few and the session was quite adhoc. Found I was weakest on slopers, slopey pinches, high steps, and very square on locks. Not very intense but quite useful.

24/12/12 – Hypergravity session: Worked through quite a lot of low-mid 7’s and tried some harder ones with 5kg added weight. Felt surprisingly strong with this, didn’t feel like the added weight made that much difference.

Arm and core session 2: Bit of improvement in the 10 minute intervals this time. Found I had enough energy to contemplate a second round, but failed half way through this. Better form on side leavers this time. Front levers are still too hard to hold in position. Planks are too easy. Improvement in one arm lock offs and pull ups. Did one arm pull ups with only 20kg assistance this time.

25/12/12 – rest day – quite sore from previous days core session. Arms, stomach and sides sore.

26/12/12 – Beastmaker session: First time trying out the 7c+ ish session on the app. Didn’t quite finish but this could partly be due to a cold coming on as well as the higher intensity. I think I could complete this reasonably when fresher. Instead of 4 finger half crimp I alternated one hand with 3 and one with 4 to make it harder as 4 with both is too easy. 

27/12/12 – Session at Climb Newcastle: Went for a bit more volume this time. Did all but a few of the white circuit, 6b-7b, then quickly did 15-20 of the pinks, 5-7a, after, including the crux one which was not 7a.

28/12/12 – Rest day: 30 minutes stretching as usual. Changed it a bit this time and did more active stretching towards the end. Feel like is more specific to climbing especially highsteps.

29/12/12 – Project session: Really encouraging session with good gains. Mainly tried crimpoteenie proj and wooden pinch proj. Linked from ground to second part of 3rd move on crimp proj on RH-side. Did easier version of the finish which is definitely possible. Harder version is possible but quite tricky. Did 2nd move of pinch proj on LH-side, and almost held it on RH-side (RH peeled off lower pinch in the swing. Tagged the top hold on 3rd move on RH side, and did an easier version of the move to a closer hold.

This series of sessions is fairly representative of what I have been doing since my return from Spain. I experienced some kind of improvement in all sessions but this could in part be neuromuscular as I hadn’t had to pull properly in quite a long time. It’s quite revealing for me to write out this many sessions at once as it gives me a bit of an overview, which is perhaps something I don’t do enough of, of the training I have done. Looking at this it is quite clear that I haven’t done as much max hang work as maybe I should have. I’ve been ill this past week so haven’t trained, but its not necessarily a bad thing to have 5 days off after 4 quite intense weeks. I’ll be aiming to do similar training over the next month, but with less volume due to time constraints, so that could be the perfect time to add in some more max hangs and really increase maximum strength. After that I’ll be setting off on a 4 month road trip starting in Font!

*On the Beastmaker App there is a failure scale at the end of each minutes hang. I worked out that each second failure is just over 2% worth of failure, and If I had to use a cheat like nestle or thumb on the sloper than I would has 20% or more, or take a note of it.

**This isn’t actually 25kg assistance. It is 12.5kg actual assistance because the machine is designed for two arms, so the weight readings are what the total weight in the system should be if you use both.

***It worked better for me because it made it more or less the correct difficulty, With the small foothold the move was a good few notches harder and the difficulty was in keeping the foot on, not in generating the force required to move.